Slouchy Cap

 

Slouchy Cap

Loose-fitting caps are becoming more trendy than fitted beanies – they are comfortable, fashionable and allow the hair to be either loose or piled up underneath.    My version of the slouchy cap is adapted to be a bit roomier for long hair but not too baggy.  This can quickly be knit in a few hours. 

Yarn 

Worsted weight – merino or blend

Needles

Size 8 circular or 4  DPNs, bamboo preferred

Instructions

CO 60 sts on circular or 3 DPNS; join ends of yarn to form a circle being sure that yarn is not twisted.  Mark start of round with a bit of yarn.

K2P2 for 10 rounds to form cap ribbing

Knit all sts for 4 rounds

You will now increase the diameter of the cap gradually by knitting into the front and back of the same stitch at spaced intervals on every other round five times.

Round 1:  K9, then knit front and back (KFB) of next st to form two sts; continue pattern of K9, KFB, K9, KFB till end of round

Round 2:  K all sts

Round 3:  K10, KFB, K10, KFB … till end of round

Round 4:  K all sts

Round 5:  K11, KFB, K11, KFB … till end of round

Round 6:  K all sts

Round 7:  K12, KFB, K12, KFB … till end of round

Round 8:  K all sts

Round 9: K 13, KFB, K13, KFB, till end of round

You have now finished increasing the diameter of the cap

Continue knitting all sts without further increases for 16 rounds

It’s now time to decrease sts in the same way that you increased but instead of KFB you will knit 2 together (K2tog).  So, for example:

Round 1:  K13, k2tog, K13, k2tog… till end of round

Round 2:  K12, k2tog, K12, k2tog.. till end of round

Round 3:  K11, k2tog, K11, k2tog... till end of round

And, so on.

If you are using circular needles, then you will need to transfer to DPNs at some point when your total st count is low. 

Continue in this pattern until 12 total sts remain.

Cut yarn leaving about 18 ins.  Thread a tapestry needle and pass through remaining 12 sts.  Tug snugly, circle yarn around itself to tie off.  Push needle through top of cap to inside and weave in loose end. 

Now, isn’t that a nice cap?

Abbreviations

CO – cast on

DPN – double-pointed needle

K – knit

K2tog – knit two together

KFB – knit front and back of stitch

P - purl

Sts – stitches

Super Bowl Musings

Tomorrow is Super Bowl Sunday and perhaps you’re invited to a party or plan to watch the big game from the comfort of your living room.  Maybe you aren’t interested at all in the game but just want to see the commercials and the half-time entertainment?  Or, is it possible that you are dreading the event and wondering how you will endure 4+ hours of football madness?

May I suggest that you grab some yarn and needles and knit some socks tomorrow?  Yes, it will pass the time and certainly spark some conversation.  If toe socks are not your thing, then give the basic crew sock pattern that I posted today a try.  Why knit socks?  One pair can be made from a single skein of yarn, they can be adjusted to fit any foot, male or female, and you will be so pleased with yourself that I bet you’ll knit another one!  Socks are the only thing that I have actually knitted for myself.  Hand-knit socks are so soft and comfortable and your feet deserve it!

As for me….  I will NOT be knitting during the Super Bowl game because my team is actually playing this year.   GO NINERS!!!!!

Basic Crew Sock

Several of you have asked for my sock pattern .. this one is dedicated to my close friend with the lime-green sock yarn that we bought together several years ago… 
 Look at her first knitted socks ever -- aren't they gorgeous?

Debra's happy feet

 Basic Crew Sock

These instructions are for an average-width women’s foot, shoe size 7.  Please adjust accordingly for other sizes. 

Yarn

Any sock weight yarn – 450 yards will be plenty for two mid-calf length socks.  Acrylic is washable, but a merino/alpaca blend makes a nice thick, soft sock.  For the sock illustrated here, I used Classic Elite Yarns Alpaca Sox blend of 60% Alpaca/20% Merino Wool/20% Nylon.

Gauge:  8 sts to 1 in

Needles

Circular needles and 4 DPNs (size US 2), bamboo is preferable so stitches don’t slip off. The entire sock can be knitted on DPNs if you don’t have circular needles, but the cuff knits more quickly on the latter. 

Step-by-Step Instructions

Cuff

Using circular needles, cast on 60 sts and connect ends to form a circle, ensuring there are no twists in the yarn.

K2P2 continuously until cuff measures 6 inches or until desired sock leg length. 

Transfer 28 sts to 1 DPN.  You will be creating a heel flap with these sts (working needle).  Put remaining 32 sts on a holding needle.

Heel

With your working needle and a 2^nd DPN, work the following pattern for 27 rows. 

Row 1 (right side or outside of sock):  Slip 1, K1; repeat pattern across row (NOTE:  when slipping stitch, position needle as if to purl and simply move yarn over to new needle).

Row 2 (wrong side or inside of sock):  Slip 1^st st, then purl all sts to end of row

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for 27 rows, ending with a right side row.



Heel flap - right side



You will now create a pocket that will fit the heel.  Read these instructions all the way through and follow carefully, you’ll get the hang of it!

Row 1:  Purl to 2 sts past center of row (16 sts) then P2tog, P 1 more, then turn your work (18 sts)  (NOTE: there will be remaining sts on your working needle when you turn the row, that’s the plan).

Row 2:  Slip 1, K5, K2tog, K one more, then turn your work

Row 3:  Slip 1, Purl to within 1 st of last turn, P2tog, P 1 more, then turn

Row 4:  Slip 1, Knit to within 1 st of last turn, K2tog, K 1 more, then turn

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until you have reached the end of each row before turning, finishing with a K2tog.

(HINT:  It is easy to see where you turned last because there will be a visible gap; the 2 sts you knit together will bridge this gap – this is what creates the pocket.  Cool huh?)

Heel flap with pocket



Ankle

You will now pick up stitches along the edges of the heel flap as well as the sts on the holding needle, working in a circle starting from the end of the last heel row.  This will require two more DPNs and a little patience.  Read through all of these instructions before starting. 

Look at the edge of the heel flap closest to your working yarn.  The slipped stitches along the edge form “V’s.  You will pick up and knit 14 sts along this edge from the heel flap to the needle holder.  Simply slip one “V” onto a DPN and then knit with another DPN.  Try to space these evenly along the edge; it doesn’t have to be perfect but be sure to pick up sts adjacent to each end so you don’t have big gaps in your sock.  You should have picked up and knitted 14 sts when you get to the needle holder with the sock cuff sts.  Transfer all 32 sts on the holding needle to a 3^rd DPN.  Now move on to the other heel flap edge and pick up 14 sts on a 4^th DPN in the same way as before. 

You should now have sts on all 4 DPNs and a very big sock opening.  You will be knitting around and forming the ankle while gradually reducing the number of sts.  But first you need to free up one of the needles.   

Moving onto the DPN that holds the heel pocket, knit half of the sts onto the right needle.  Transfer the remaining half to the needle on the left by slipping each st as if to knit (not purl).  Now you have all the sts on 3 needles and are ready to knit in the round again. 

You will need to keep track of the needles while knitting in the round, so let’s number them:

Needle 1 – first working needle (left side of triangle in picture) (22 sts).

Needle 2 – cuff ribbing (30 sts)

Needle 3 – right side of triangle (22 sts).

You will be reducing the sts on needles 1 and 3 every other round.

Round 1:  K all sts, starting with Needle 1 and working your way around all 3 DPNs. 

Round 2:  K to last 3 sts on Needle 1, then K2tog and K last st.  K all sts across Needle 2.  On Needle 3, K1, Slip next 2 sts (as if to knit).  Then K the two slipped sts passed to working needle by inserting left needle through both sts, wrapping yarn around right needle and pulling through 1 new stitch.  This is a bit tricky, but keep at it!  Pull yarn snugly to prevent slipping off working needle and to avoid having a gap in your sock.   K remaining sts on Needle 3. 

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until there are 14 sts remaining on Needles 1 and 3 (total of 60 sts on all 3 needles).  This completes the heel and you are ready to knit the foot!

Completed heel and ankle

Foot

Determine the length of your foot with a tape measure and subtract 2 inches.  You will knit in the round until your sock measures this length (about 7 inches for a woman’s shoe size 7).  Continue with DPNs for this portion because you will be reducing the toe portion as done for the ankle. 

Toe end

You are almost done!  Now we’ll gradually reduce sts to form the tapered end of the sock.

 This will be done on Needles 1 and 3 in the same way as the ankle, but you will also be reducing sts on Needle 2  as well.   

Round 1:  On Needle 1,  K to last 3 sts, then K2tog and K last st.  On Needle 2, you will be reducing by 2 sts, one at the beginning and one at the end of the row.  First, K1, Slip 2, then K these two slipped sts together, as done before with ankle.  This will be known as KSSK.  Now continue knitting across Needle 2 until last 3 sts, then K2tog and K last st.  On Needle 3, KSSK, then K remaining sts on needle.   

Round 2:  K all sts

Continue with Rounds 1 and 2 until 24 sts remain.  (12 sts on Needle 2 and 6 sts each on Needles 1 and 3).  As you go, you’ll see the pattern of knitted-together sts forming a line along the toe edge.  Very nice huh?

Finale

You will now finish your sock with a little magic  -- a seamless edge that will look really nice!  This is called “grafting”.  Just follow this step-by-step:

Cut off about 18 inches of yarn and thread a tapestry needle.

Hold your DPNs together front-to-back with the free yarn edge to the right on the back needle. You will be working from front to back on both DPNs.  ALWAYs pass the yarn under the needles and pull snugly for a tight graft.

Ready to graft the toe end

 With the tapestry needle, pass through the first st on the front needle as if to purl, pull yarn snug (picture).  Then, pass the yarn through the first st on the back needle as if to knit, and draw yarn through. 

Now Follow the next two steps:

Step 1:  Insert needle knitwise through first st on front DPN and slip this st off onto the tapestry needle;  then re-position to insert purlwise into the next st also on the front DPN.  Draw the yarn through, leaving that st on the DPN.

Step 2:  On the back DPN now, insert the needle purlwise through the 1^st st and slip it off onto the tapestry needle, then re-position and insert knitwise into the next st on the back needle and pull yarn through. 

Repeat Steps 1 and 2 until one st remains on each DPN.  Be sure to pass the yarn beneath the needles and pull thread snugly each time. 

Keep track of the pattern:

Knit, Purl [front needle];   Purl, Knit [back needle]

Knit, Purl [front needle];   Purl, Knit [back needle]  etc..

When you have 1 st remaining on each DPN, go through the front st knitwise and the back st purlwise, removing both sts and draw yarn snugly.  Loop the yarn around itself and poke through the corner to the inside of sock. Cut off the end, leaving 2-3 inches of yarn to weave into the inside of the sock. 

You’re done!  You’ve successfully knitted your first sock.  Don’t worry if it doesn’t look perfect – they will only get better each one you knit. 

One done and one to go!

Abbreviations

DPN – double-pointed needles

K – knit

K2tog – knit two stitches together to form one stitch

KSSK – knit, slip 2 stitches, then knit the two slipped stitches together

P – purl

P2tog – purl two stitches together to form one stitch

St – stitch